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Refinished Hardwood Flooring

Hardwood Refinishing in the Los Angeles, California area

Hardwood Floor Suppliers

hardwood floor refinishing los angeles, california

Hardwood Floor Refinishing

Most solid wood flooring is 3/4" thick and can be sanded and refinished a number of times. Thinner wood floors, solid or engineered - 1/2" or 3/8" thicknesses - should be refinished with caution because repeated sandings can wear down the groove edge, causing breakage or wear through to reveal nails. With laminated flooring, professional sanding is recommended.

To determine the floor thickness remove a floor heating register or the shoe mold and baseboard so that an edge of the flooring can be measured. When refinishing floors, remove as little of the surface as is absolutely necessary. This is particularly true with veneered and thinner floors. On square edge strip flooring that is face-nailed, all nails must be driven slightly below the surface of the wood to permit sanding.

Sanding is Mission Critical for Refinishing Existing Hardwood Floors.

It may be necessary to use a very coarse "open coat" paper to remove the old finish. The heat and abrasion of the sanding operation make the old finish gummy and may quickly clog normal sanding paper. First try regular paper (particularly on a diagonal). If 90% of the finish is removed and the floor is generally flattened, coarser grits are not necessary. When you get down to new wood use the same procedures and grits as previously described under "Sanding a New Strip or Plank Floor". If the old floor has been painted several times it may be necessary to use paint remover to uncover the wood surface.

The number of sanding passes required for "Refinishing" will be largely determined by the condition of the old floor and the thickness of the finish being removed. If the surface is in very good shape, with only light scratches and few dents, and has no build-up of old finish and wax, one pass with the disc sander and fine paper may be sufficient. Be sure all the old finish is removed. If the floor has been abused, scarred or dished, use as many cuts as are necessary to get a smooth, unblemished surface. If badly scarred and abused boards have not been repaired, it may be advisable to leave some blemishes in the floor or too much sanding may be required. With a floor that is in fair condition, make the first cut at a 45°± angle to the flooring direction with medium grit paper to level the floor and remove 90% of the finish. Then follow the instructions given for sanding a new floor on the succeeding cuts. Use the same grit paper as was used on the 45° cut for the first cut parallel to the flooring strips.


IMPORTANT: Allow ample time with the sanding procedure to apply the first coat of stain or other finish the same day that sanding is completed. This prevents a raised grain condition which creates a rough surface. When machine and hand sanding are completed sweep and vacuum the floor. Wipe up and/or vacuum all dust on windows, sills, doors, door frames, and baseboards. Inspect the floor carefully. Spot-fill missed cracks and nail holes with a commercial flooring filler, applied sparingly with a putty knife. When dry, hand sand with fine sandpaper, same grit as final sanding.

IMPORTANT: Check with finish manufacturer or supplier to make sure fillers are compatible with finish materials. For future re-finishing, it is essential to know the brand names and color of the stain and other finishing products used, or if the floors were prefinished at the flooring manufacturing plant.


Immediately after sanding is completed the finishing process should begin. This process involves applying a protective coating and a color, if desired, to the flooring. Finishing produces a uniformly enhanced surface and seals the wood to make it less absorbent to moisture and foreign materials.